Ceramic Coating, Part III: Cost Differences

 Ceramic Coating, Part III: Cost Differences

  This is a loaded question with many avenues to venture down. Because as consumers when we don't know enough about a particular subject it is easy for us to feel we are being taken advantage of. It happens in every industry, automotive, grocery, healthcare, construction and so on.

  I believe a lot of these issues have a common ground that is, if we can do it ourselves we develop a disconnect to the true value of the service. For some, we just love spending time on the weekend working on our cars, be it, wrenching on them to change oil or brakes or washing, waxing and vacuuming them. 

  I touched on the want and will to do it ourselves but not forget, the know how to accomplish such a task as detailing our own car. It can be difficult to achieve the performance that many professional can achieve. In our last blog I spoke of the prep and what needs to happen before we can apply a coating and what I left out is, what coating to buy and why and how to apply the coating. Now there is even more to know for a DIY person before they can get started.

  I could go on and on and travel down many roads but I need to stay focused on the cost, so lets jump in.

Cost to purchase a Ceramic Coating

   I've mentioned that there are many many choices. For this blog I will not include cost for soaps, polishes, towels, polishers, etc and only talk about the coating itself. 

  Consumer Level, A DIY person can buy a coating online from $25 to $65 and give or take from those two numbers to change slightly. I personally would stick to the $65 price range and you should be happy with the results.

Pro Level, Compare it to a Professional grade and for many of us installers we start at $65 and can go over $200 per bottle, per installation. This heavily weighs on the coating manufacture, the durability and the type of solvents that go into producing these coatings.

Prep DIY, I feel it very difficult to price this out because of a consumer in his or her garage not knowing the tools or abilities they may have and the speed they want to work in. Only you know what your time is worth.

Prep Pro, As a professional installer and an owner of a detail business with a physical location, I can speak of all the overhead that I have. There is the obvious like rent or mortgage payment, utilities, advertising, equipment cost, and many don't think about the fact we have to consider vacation, sick days, training and most importantly insurances and licensing. These are all factors that must be considered to run a successful company and should also be how one would figure out an hourly rate. It is very easy to think that a professional company is too expensive and maybe some are but when we add up those numbers to work for less than $50 an hour just is not possible.

  Professional shops can range anywhere from starting around the $400-$500 price up to $1,200 and some shops start at $1,000-$2,000 plus.

  Besides the overhead mentioned earlier, three more factors just as important is our price per bottle, what surface is being coated (every surface type has a coating type) and the installers talent. We can't forget that a persons talent is worth a certain amount and this will fluctuate. I can't speak for all shops but for me personally, it is difficult to charge less than $85 an hour for any of my services, not just coatings. 

  This is a tough topic to speak about and I may have rambled, repeated and maybe even became bored while writing it. It took a few days of coming back to it and motivate myself to finish. This is not everything on the subject, it would just become too long. If you have questions about anything written or not written please leave a comment and reach out. Thank you for reading and following along.

"Dan the Detailer" 

 Ceramic Coatings, Part II: Prepping for a Coating

  I want to briefly touch on ceramic coatings again before jumping into the prep before installing. 

  A couple things to watch out for is the marketing behind them. Many companies push that they are 9H hardness. This form of marketing implies the hardness of the coating can not be scratched by anything.  The application to a car's paint is so thin to claim any kind of superhero scratch resistance.

"Ceramic's resistance to exfoliation, too, has been blown out of proportion. The bond between a ceramic coating and your paint is strong enough to stand up to towels and light abrasions—far better than conventional wax—but if you run your coated car through a dirty-brush automatic car wash, you're rinsing $3000 down the drain. As Mike Stoops of Meguiars put it, a ceramic coating isn’t a Star Trek shield that can repel all damage. It’s a sacrificial barrier that will give itself up to protect your paint." - Mack Hogan, Road & Track

  "It’s also not a healing product like a polishing compound. While promotional images show immaculate ceramic-coated cars with swirl-free paint and zero imperfections, a ceramic coating alone won’t get your daily driver any closer to that ideal. Coat an imperfect car and you’ll simply lock those imperfections beneath a slick, protective layer. If you want glass-smooth paint, you'll probably need to do some polishing before you apply that ceramic layer." - Mack Hogan, Road & Track

  Coming back around to the Prep Work and now understanding the importance of it. I will break this down into 5 Steps.

  In order for a coating to bond and last 2, 3, 5 plus years it begins with the cleanest of all panels (surfaces)

Step 1, Decontamination Wash:

 Washing entire vehicle down with soap will remove the loose dirt ensuring less scratching when moving forward. Remove all tar with a solvent based tar remover before moving onto an iron remover. Use a chemical based iron remover to remove all the little metal particles stuck to your exterior surfaces. And lastly remove bugs and rewash the exterior a second time to rinse free the exterior.

Step 2, Wax and Grease Remover:

  This step must be done now and you will also find that installers will be doing this step various times throughout the process.  This must be used to remove the silicones, waxes and grease so that the compounds or polishes will not only remove defects better but bond better too.

Step 3, Compound or Polish to Remove Defects

  As read earlier, scratches, dullness, etc must be removed or lightened in order to receive the best look and best chance of the coating bonding after the it is installed. As a Professional installer we must access each panel individually as well as the entire exterior to determine how to remove said defects. This can be a process that can take a couple hours or 14 plus hours and up based on size/type of vehicle, types of defects or issues with the paint, how many defects will be removed and each installers process on how to remedy those issues.

Step 4, Wax & Grease Remover:

 Again this step is back. When using any compound or polish, they will leave fillers that will leave a wet layer behind that messes with our eyes thinking the scratches have been removed. Once the panel is wiped we can then see if we have removed the scratch and also prep that panel for the next step.

Step 5, Applying and Leveling Coating:

 Now that all the heavy lifting has been done, the final step is to apply the coating. Every coating out there has a little bit different way to apply and level. This is mainly due to the type and amount of solvent used as a carrier in creating a ceramic based coating. Once the coating flashes we are able to level, not remove but level. Leveling ensures no high spots and helps to create that clear high gloss afterwards. This process alone can take up to an hour or even more, again, based on what brand and its solvents used. 

  There are many types, both consumer and professional grade coatings and these rules will apply to both if you are looking to achieve the best results possible. Can a person do it themselves and achieve great results, absolutely. But you have to be willing to put in the time and for many that isn't possible. Also, can a "Professional" installer just be there to take your money, yes. But you can find that in any industry and as consumers we must educate ourselves the best we can and then ask the Professionals all the questions.

  Here I spoke about installing a coating and why it must be done this way. No, this isn't the only way and there may be better or different ways. This post was also an entry through the door into a room that is the forbidden conversation, cost. Up next, why does the cost fluctuate so much between installers, why can it be so expensive and maybe even then, is it worth it.

Thank you again for following along this journey into auto detailing with me.

Dan Goralski, Final Finish Detailing LLC

www.finalfinishdetailing.com

fb @finalfinishdetailingllc

ig @finalfinishdetailing_wi

 

  Switching gears and getting away from the interior of your car for a bit. Over the last 10 years ceramic coatings have gained popularity especially the last few years with Dealerships offering them. 

  In recent years, ceramic coating has become the hottest thing in car care. Taking your car to a local professional detailer who does ceramic coating might be overwhelming with the all the information and the by just how much it costs. A quality professional grade coating could cost close to $1,000 (or more!) depending on how much additional work has to be done to get your car ready for ceramic coating.

  Are ceramic coatings worth the money? Do they offer significant benefits over traditional wax or other sealants? I hope this article will help you answer those questions.

Ceramic Coatings . Glass Coatings . Nano Coatings . Polymer Ceramic

  Like many things automotive, the auto detailing world is no stranger to confusing us the installers and you the consumer. It's all about the next big thing, marketing and making money. And with more and more people wanting to take care of there vehicles for the long haul, we have more options than ever.

  Again, there is a lot to talk about so I may be breaking this up into a few different parts.

Article Credit: Jason Siu, autoguide.com, 10/28/2020

   Primarily composed of silica and titanium dioxide, these two substances together form a covalent bond that is hydrophobic in nature and forms a nano-ceramic shield above the vehicle’s clear coat. Nano coatings are highly-concentrated formulas that utilize nano technology to fill minor cracks or imperfections, creating a flat and hard layer of protection. 

  As you read and find information in regards to ceramic coatings one thing you will find is that most companies boast a 9H ceramic coating.  9H is the highest on the pencil scale of hardness and is  hard as a solid quartz crystal. The pencil scale of hardness is used for ceramic coating to signify how “hard” the coating is once it’s cured. The scale ranges from 0 to 9, and the “H” indicates the hardness of that grade.

  In a way, you can look at ceramic coating as a much more premium alternative to wax, but it’s more than just that. The protective layer it forms is extremely hydrophobic, helping keep water off your car’s surface. It also serves as a protective barrier from the sun’s harmful UV rays, oxidation, and other contaminants that may stick to your car’s clear coat or paint.

  Nano ceramic coatings also have the benefit of offering some level of scratch protection. Since it’s forming a hard shell on the surface of your vehicle, the probability of getting light scratches does decrease.

  In summary, ceramic coating creates a barrier on your vehicle, reducing the chances that it’s damaged by the environment or even accidental scratches. That means your car’s finish stays looking new and with less maintenance.

  This is a small window into the beginning of Ceramic Coatings. Next we will dive into the cost of this service if you are visiting a professional detail shop, what is being offered and why the high price.  And also talk about the difference between consumer grades anyone can find on the internet in sites like Amazon and Ebay and ones that only us Professional shops are certified to use.

Thank you for following along!

www.finalfinishdetailing.com

Your Car Interior, Part II

Your Car 

Part II: PPE, Personal Protective Equipment

 When it comes to detailing, PPE protects us the technician more than anything while we clean your vehicle. That said, is there anything more satisfying than jumping into a super clean vehicle free of odors, grime and grossness and that feeling of freshness. Like scoring an extra life in a video game. No? Maybe a free coffee from your favorite coffee shop then. 

 Before we can operate safely cleaning your vehicle, we must also know what it is that we are using to clean the interior and exterior.

 SDS, Safety Data Sheets give us a run down of the chemical make up of the product, how to use and dispose of and how to protect us while using the product. This is a must have for any professional auto shop to have easily accessible.

 As detailers we often get thrown in with a broad market to include service shops and body shops. The three most common pieces of equipment are eye protection, ear, hand and respiratory protection.

Data taken from the Office of Technical Assistance & Technology, Understanding OSHA Requirements for Auto Shops.

Protection for eyes and face Based on the task, workers may need protection against chemical splashes, vapors or mists, flying sparks or particles, or harmful glare (29 CFR 1910.133). Protective eyewear should fit properly and be appropriate for the work. 

Protection for hands. The type glove and it varies from task to task. Shop owners must provide their workers with appropriate gloves to protect them from solvents. Glove varieties include butyl, neoprene, or nitrile gloves and it is up to you to read the SDS for each product since these gloves do not protect against all hazardous chemicals.

 Latex gloves are meant to be used in the health care setting, as they only protect against germs or biological hazards. In addition, latex gloves may cause an allergic, and sometimes deadly, reaction in some individuals. You should avoid using latex gloves. 

Protection for hearing. The OSHA enforceable permissible exposure level over an eight-hour workday is 90 decibels (dB). The limit for 15 minutes is 115 dB (29 CFR 1910.95). If workers are exposed to a loud environment, provide earplugs or other ear protection.   

Respiratory Protection. What You Need To Know General information Respirators protect workers lungs from hazardous airborne chemicals or particles. Employers are responsible for providing adequate respiratory protection that corresponds with the hazardous chemical exposure of the task being performed (29 CFR 1910.134). 

 No one wants to think about what is trapped in the carpet, fabric, plastics and leather of our vehicles. It is comforting to know that the equipment exists for us as detailers to touch the surfaces in your vehicle and to also breathe safely while disturbing the material and air inside of your car.

 There are many cases of technicians becoming sick and/or even hospitalized from the extended exposure that is the process of Auto Detailing. For many of us climbing over the 20 year mark, this is a major concern.

 And one of many reasons we have to price ourselves the way we do. As a consumer it is crucial to be as educated as possible. When an automotive shop of any kind quotes you a price, before getting upset or simply confused, do not ever be afraid to ask questions. As for me and my company, I am an open book and want to be as transparent as I can be with my customers. I will go out of my way to spend time with you to make sure you understand what exactly you need and that you as a consumer know and understand what you are receiving. 

Thank you for reading Part II.

Your Car Interior, Part I

 I've been detailing for 27 years now and have owned our detailing business since 2009. I have often wondered about what we run into in vehicles that we clean. This topic is something I think many detailers push to the back and try not to think about it.

 I have found this to be quite a topic with many areas of interest like the germs, what products are better/safer to use on automotive interiors, how to clean and one not really thought about, is there PPE (personal protective equipment) that can be worn to keep the person cleaning safe.

 For this reason I will be breaking this read up into a few different parts in order to keep each on the shorter side. 

 Part I will talk about germs and bacteria on the various surfaces of the interior of your vehicle. Great article written by Sandee LaMotte of CNN.

Phot Credit: Final Finish Detailing LLC, Schofield, WI

Your Car

Part I: Germs inside

Credit: Sandee LaMotte, CNN-11/22/2019

 A study done by an Expedia car rental company found steering wheels to be four times more germy than a public toilet seat, and six times more germ-infested than your cell phone (which we tend to carry into the bathroom). Cup holders came next, followed by seat belts, the inside door handle, gear shift and audio volume knob.

In fact, the study found the inside of the average car to be over 2,000 times germier than a phone, with more than 200 infectious bacteria per inch.

None of that surprises microbiologist Charles Gerba, a professor of public health, environmental science and immunology at the University of Arizona.

"I can actually tell by looking at the microbiology of a car where it is from in the US," Gerba said. Known as "Dr. Germ" for his abundant testing for germs on nearly every surface mankind might touch, Gerba's work is often commissioned by cleaning supply manufacturers to verify if their products work.

"We grew salmonella in the shop and we put them in the trucks of cars in different states," Gerba said. "In the south and Florida, it's nice and humid like a sauna so you get tons of bacteria. Michigan is like a refrigerator, so it's loaded with fungi because they grow better at the colder temperature."

However, in Arizona where Gerba lives, it's tougher for bacteria to survive: "They get toasted because it's 120 degrees in your trunk."

The solution is obvious: Clean the inside of your car with sanitizing wipes, change the air filters frequently to remove airborne particles, vacuum upholstery and sanitize floor mats. And don't forget to clean your keys.

Another germy surface you won't be able to avoid on your road trip: the gas station. The buttons you push to select and pay for gas harbor millions of bacteria, some dangerous, some not, according to the car rental survey. Gas pumps carried over 6,000 times the bacteria a public elevator button has and more than 11,000 times the germs of a public toilet seat.

Automotive leather seating, what is it and how to care for it

 For many, automotive leather is an unknown. It is simply a stylish option when purchasing a vehicle. There is a lot of information to unravel when talking about automotive leather. Most importantly, it is, how to properly take care of it.

 In our shop, unfortunately when we see the vehicle, the leather has not been taken care of and needs more attention then just the standard cleaning. It is best to clean your seating once a month or by-monthly right from the beginning of taking ownership of your new vehicle. 

 Our process is to always first vacuum as to not create mud and work it into the leather. Use a mild cleaner gentle and specific for leather and without any oils or conditioners. Never spray cleaners directly on the leather as it may cause staining/streaking on the surface of the material. Spray your cleaner on the bristles of your brush, which should be made of a soft to moderately stiff horse hair. Scrub in circular and forward/backward, left to right motions. Make sure to use one hand to spread apart the seating at the seems in order to deep clean those areas. Immediately wipe dry with a microfiber towel and use one towel per seat as to not reintroduce dirt back into your next seat.

 And that is it. We do not use conditioners or oils because they will not absorb into the leather, rather sit on the surface and absorb into your clothing. As you read the article below, it will explain this in better detail.

 By gently cleaning in this fashion once a month or by-monthly your leather will stay as close to OEM as possible for a long time with much better results than introducing a greasy condtioner.

 With that said, we do have and use a protection that works well at protecting your car leather and makes cleaning the next time a breeze. It is a ceramic coating specific for automotive leather. It is clear, last up to one year (depending on driving/care habits) and dries to the touch leaving zero oils behind. Similar to a ceramic coating for the exterior paint, it will leave a surface that dirt, oils, etc have a hard time sticking to. For this reason you can get by with a damp cloth for quick wipe downs or a very mild cleaner sprayed into a microfiber towel to wipe down your seating. 

 The article below is well written by Nadeem Muaddi, June 18th, 2018 where he interviews Aaron Waithlaite, founder and CEO of Hydes Leather.

What is the primary difference between automotive and furniture leather?

The primary difference is in the tanning process. Furniture leather uses a lot of fat liquor to make the skin fibers elastic and soft, which creates a supple leather. In automotive leather, durability and long life is needed so less fat liquors are used to create a stronger hide. This creates a leather that is more resistant to stretching and bagging.

Is automotive leather chemically treated differently than furniture leather? 

There are differences in the surface finish. In automotive leather, there is more UV protectant to block out the sun’s rays. There are also extra additives in the pigment dyes for durability and abrasion resistance and to minimize off-gassing (the windshield fog that we all wipe away).

Furniture leather needs a lot of upkeep. Is that also true of automotive leather?

Automotive-grade leather by nature has a lot of protectant in it. Therefore, I feel that adding a lot of leather protectants and lotions is unnecessary. The leather has been tanned to preserve it. It isn’t alive anymore. The proper amount of ingredients have been added to make the leather last as long as possible, and it has been tested thoroughly.

Auto leather has a pigmented and urethane top coat to seal it. When lotions are applied to it, it’s really just sitting on the surface and then rubbing off on clothing. Occasional moisturizers are not going to hurt, but their benefits are also debatable.

I have seen cases where excessive moisturizing has altered the moisture content inside the leather hide, which causes the leather fibers to lose their strength and the interior becomes very loose, and in some cases dashboards bubble up or shrink.